Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Last week we had a few days off at last! And it was a joy to be out on the crags climbing in Pembrokeshire for fun! As we hadn’t been on the limestone in a while, we spent a few days down there. Initially with Alun, but Bramble also got out of his kayak and came with us one day! Great company and some new places explored, and steep, adventurous routes done!

Climbing at St Govans

Climbing at St Govans

Steep ground Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Steep ground Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Climbing through the Blow Hole

Climbing through the Blow Hole

After a few days personal climbing in Pembrokeshire, I had a great day teaching lead climbing skills to Steve and Nikki. Being strong indoor climbers they picked up all the new skills quickly, and both did their first lead climbs in the Porth Clais area. Amazing weather and good company, hopefully they will both be back out on the cliffs again soon!

Steve on a course lead climbing in Pembrokeshire

Steve on a course lead climbing in Pembrokeshire

After a busy Monday to Friday it was a quick trip to North Wales for the weekend… I was attending a “Train the Trainers” course at Plas Y Brenin. Run by Mike Raine, this course is aimed at those delivering training to candidates going through the national governing body awards, such as the SPA and ML. The goal is to get like minded people to explore different teaching styles and models, using mock clients. An interesting couple of days, and a joy to be in the hills in such amazing weather!

Teaching ML rope work in Snowdonia

Teaching ML rope work in Snowdonia

Coasteering and Climbing in Pembrokeshire

 

This last week has been a good one! The water has been as good as it gets; clear, calm, clean and some good low tides – great for some Coasteering and Climbing in Pembrokeshire! I have been working for TYF as well as getting plenty of climbing in… These September days, once the school holiday crowds have gone, truly are magical in Pembrokeshire…

We’ve had some great days Coasteering at both St. Nons and Abereiddy, with some lovely low tide explores, as well as some bigger swell adventures! Plenty of seals around too, with the pups appearing on the beaches. Be aware if you see any to keep your distance and stay quiet, don’t linger too long as the mums might not come and feed them whilst you’re there…

Coasteering at Abereiddy

Coasteering at Abereiddy

In the "tumble dryer", Coasteering at Abereiddy

In the “tumble dryer”, Coasteering at Abereiddy

 

After a few days in the water I was glad to be on dry land, accompanying a school group on a coastal walk, looking at map skills along with environmental issues, with the fantastic weather giving us awesome views over to Strumble Head, one of my favourite vistas in Pembrokeshire…

Looking over to Strumble Head

Looking over to Strumble Head

A weekend away climbing in South Pembrokeshire completed a really brilliant week! We did some fantastic climbs on Range East, and some new routes, but what will linger in my mind longest is the Lemon and Dill sauce we had at the Stackpole Inn! Amazing and highly recommended! We spent the day in the sun climbing in the Blockhouse Buttress area, slightly off the beaten track (due to it’s long by Pembrokeshire standards 20 minute walk in!), the area contains some fantastic routes, so go check them out!

Climbing on Range East

Climbing on Range East

 

Alun and Sophie following a route at Blockhouse Buttress...

Alun and Sophie following a route at Blockhouse Buttress…

Bank Holiday Weekend Climbing in Pembrokeshire

What a great couple of weeks it has been! I’ve been too busy climbing, working and exploring in Pembrokeshire to write any blog updates, so here is a sum up of the last couple of weeks, and the bank holiday weekend climbing in Pembrokeshire…. The weathers been almost non-stop good, great tides and magical sunsets, great clients and new routes climbed to boot!

We had a great day with Sicco and Hannah, a father and daughter from Germany (who thankfully spoke perfect English…). Hannah was psyched to get on any climb she possible could, and at only 9 shows great promise for the future should she keep it up, whilst dad Sicco had done loads of sport climbing previously – so he cruised his first trad lead climb here on the Pembrokeshire sea cliffs.

Sicco happy having led his first trad route!

Sicco happy having led his first trad route!

We had a day out with some local instructors who have got their SPA assessments coming up. This award lets them take groups of novices onto single pitch crags, a vital stepping stone in the ladder to being a successful outdoor instructor. We went through top and bottom roping, group abseils, and problem solving. We were luck to have some willing guinea pigs come along for the guys to practice on too!

Teaching SPA Skills to Instructors

Teaching SPA Skills to Instructors

It’s almost a tradition now for people to spend the bank holiday climbing in Pembrokeshire, and with the release of the excellent Climbers Club Pembrokeshire guidebooks, we are definitely noticing the area is getting busier, with crags that were relatively unexplored before, now having frequent visits..  Luckily for us we know more secret spots (and whole crags with no routes on!) so we were able to escape the crowds with Si and Elliot on a learn to lead course over the Bank Holiday Weekend…

Seconding a climb in Pembrokeshire

Seconding a climb in Pembrokeshire

We visited several crags on the first day, looking at loads of belays and rope work, gear placements and of course climbing heaps of classic routes, and on the second day, from being relative novices, both Si and Elliot were doing their first trad lead climbs. Great effort guys and thanks for a great weekend with good company…

Lead Climbing Course in Pembrokeshire

Lead Climbing Course in Pembrokeshire

I was lucky to have bank holiday Monday off for a rare change, and was rearing to get out and have a climb, and being super sunny and warm, a dip in the sea. Not many places in the work you can go on what is one of the busiest tourist days of the year, and have the crag to yourself, right by the turquoise sea, watch Porpoises and seals and swim in the warm(ish!) water to cool off as it’s too hot! Magical! Gotta love bank holidays in Pembrokeshire climbing with the cliffs to yourself!

Stunning St David's Head

Stunning St David’s Head

Once the crowds had departed from Pembrokeshire, the weather was still awesome, and the tides perfect for some exploration. We spent the day looking at lead climbing skills at a very unexplored crag near Newgale, with some excellent established routes, great to learn to lead climb on, it should be more popular – but we’re not complaining! We had the pleasure of doing a couple of first ascents during the day, the most memorable being up a pinnacle, with a proper pointy summit necessitating a counterbalance abseil decent. Throughout the day our only company was a couple of seals that watched us pretty mush non-stop… I’m excited to get back here and check out more of the new routes…

Exploring new routes in Pembrokeshire

Exploring new routes in Pembrokeshire

Sunny Sport Climbing Portland

This weekend I’ve been down in Dorset, working on a “learn to sport climb” course for Freeborn Climbing. We had 5 fantastic people who had varying levels of experience, all progressed massively over the two days. It makes a nice change for me, as we have virtually no sport climbing in Pembrokeshire, so it was great to clip some bolts in the sunshine!

Sport Climbing in Portland

Sport Climbing in Portland

Over the course of the weekend we climbed loads of great routes, initially looking at a focus on belaying, climbing movement and efficient technique, alongside the art of clipping quick-draws!

Teaching threading lower-offs at The Cuttings

Teaching threading lower-offs at The Cuttings

Once the team all had the skills to thread lower offs and felt confidant to lead, we climbed loads of routes to reinforce the skills…

Coaching leading on the sharp end whilst sport climbing

Coaching leading on the sharp end whilst sport climbing

We rounded up the weekend with some problem solving and avoidance. Hopefully everyone will be confidant to get out themselves now and get on the sharp end! Awesome effort in hot weather!\

How to protect an abseil

How to protect an abseil

Tying-off the belay plate

Tying-off the belay plate

 

Basic Climbing Starter Kit

I get asked all the time on courses “What do I need to start Climbing on my own?”. The biggest thing you need is the basic skills to put a harness on, tie in to a rope, and belay safely. Once you can do all that, and are sure climbing is for you, there really isn’t that much kit you need to start out indoor climbing….

So, once you can correctly answer the usual “tick Yes or No” questions a wall might ask you on their disclaimer forms, lets get shopping! Below is a picture of all the kit you need to start climbing indoors, bottom-roping, using the “in-situ” ropes at the climbing centre:

Starter Climbing Kit

Starter Climbing Kit

Harness – There are a plethora of different types out there, Men’s/Women’s, “zip-lock buckles”/double back through buckles, fully adjustable/fixed leg loops etc.. etc… The 2 most important things to consider are – 1. Is it the right size? and 2. Is it comfy? If these 2 boxes are ticked, then you’ll be alright, by the time you want to do more adventurous climbing and perhaps need a different harness, it’ll be time to get a new one anyway. All the manufacturers have to pass the same safety standards, but there can be a difference in quality, so don’t necessarily go for the cheapest one.. Spend some time in a shop trying a few on, have a hang in them (most good shops will have a hang point) to get a feel of how comfy they are. Always follow the manufactures recommendations with care, maintenance and retiring kit…

Shoes – The same goes for shoes, with a dazzling array out there for you to choose from. Ideally we want a tight pair, with our toes right up in the end of the shoe, but in a way that is comfortable to wear for prolonged periods. The shoe should not hurt! Our feet are complicated, delicate things, so don’t ram them into tight shoes… Top tip – cut your toe nails regularly! Avoid a really technical pair for your first shoe, try loads on as they are all different shapes and sizes, and when you feel your climbing is coming on enough to warrant a more technical pair, then I’m sure you’ll have worn out your first pair and will be needing a new pair anyway!

Belay Device/Carabiner – You’re best of getting a nice simple belay plate type device, such as the brilliant DMM Bug (pictured), and an HMS (often called Pear Shaped) Carabiner to accompany it. There are lots of different fancy devices out there, which are great for certain jobs, but perhaps not all – we’ll look at these in another article. So for now, nice and simple, and these are the best all round devices. All the usual manufactures produce them, they will all work! Watch you don’t accidentally get a specialist one that’s designed for thinner ropes – you wont be using those indoors where the ropes will be 10mm+.

Some Carabiners can come with the addition of a plate or clip that stop them swivelling round on your harness (e.g. – DMM Belay Master) and these are great for preventing cross loading (Come on a course with us to learn what that means!), but if you learn to belay really well and are vigilant, then I’d go without them. Belaying as a skill is easily done wrong, to learn it well is an art, and a life-saver.

Chalk-Bag – To stop your sweaty hands slipping off! Whatever you like the look of. Get a chalk-bag belt or a piece of cord to tie it around your waist. It’s useful to use a chalk ball with a small amount of loose chalk powder, if you’re somewhere really warm liquid chalk is great, especially for sport climbing and DWS… NEVER clip it on to your harness with a carabiner – this puts a big hard metal object at the bottom of your spine, and there have been cases of people being paralysed after falling off and landing on it…

Next we’ll look at the additional kit to go Sport Climbing outdoors….

If you’re looking to buy any kit, if you’ve attended one of our courses we can offer you a 15% discount at the excellent V12 in Llanberis – one of the best climbing shops around.

Second week in Dartmoor

Our second week in Dartmoor followed the same format as previous. Working alongside some great instructors we put the MOD apprentices through their paces with a day Rock Climbing at Hound Tor, a 2 day exped over Dartmoor and a days Mountain biking at Haldon Forest..

As well as the days working we managed a quick evening hit to Hound Tor to solo some of the routes there, and a great evening in the sun Bouldering at Bone Hill – I had not been there before but the area is awesome! Well worth a visit… Glad to be back in Pembrokeshire now after a couple of weeks away, and looking forward to getting some routes done on our stunning coastline!

Climbing at Hound Tor

Climbing at Hound Tor

Walking on Dartmoor

Walking on Dartmoor

Climbing at Hound Tor

Climbing at Hound Tor

Mountain Biking at Haldon Forest

Mountain Biking at Haldon Forest

MOD apprentice week in Dartmoor

This week I’ve been working on behalf of “Wet and High Adventures” with a group of engineering apprentices from the MOD for Bridgwater College. A busy week aimed to develop their problem solving and team-work and to provide a bit of bonding for them! We climbed, mountain biked and hiked throughout Dartmoor from out base at the brilliant “Dartmoor Expedition Centre”.

Our first day of climbing coincided with the only bit of rain for the week, so we headed indoors to the Dart-Rock Climbing Centre. An excellent place for the guys to take their first steps. We spent the morning looking at good climbing technique on the bouldering wall, before learning to belay and get on some routes. A few of the guys even managed some lead climbs – on their very first day climbing – great effort! We finished the day with an awesome inter-team bouldering comp…

bouldering at dart rock

learning to belay

Our 2 day hike over some fantastic scenery was couple with amazing weather – a real treat, and the guys coped well with the navigation and physical nature of the long miles – we did have a fair few stops in the sun by the river though to soak up the rays!

2 day hike on dartmoor

River hopping on Dartmoor

Our final day mountain biking on the excellent Haldon Forest Trails was a brilliant end to the week. Starting on the skills track with the burms, drop-offs and other obstacles, we developed their personal biking enough to finish the day on one of the tricky red trails. A fun week at work with some great people – really nice to be working with a bunch of super highly experienced instructors – and another week of it starting tomorrow!

Mountain Biking at Haldon Forest Trails

 

Avalanche O’clock on Meggy

Want to know what 2 days of warm weather and some torrential rain do to the snowpack? Then look on… 1 word – AVALANCHE!

We were heading out to Meggy in the hope of checking out some of the avalanche activity from the last 2 days. Knowing there would be some interesting conditions we had already decided on an easy day out and to avoid going onto any snowy sections. This decision was rightly backed up by the view from the carpark, a huge full depth avalanche on the hill above, almost 300m wide.. Plenty more were visible from the road too.

Large full depth just above the farm

Large full depth just above the farm

We left the Meggy car park amid glorious sunshine, t-shirts and sunglasses were the order of the day, but not for long! To be fair, the weather was a vast improvement on the last couple of days – in that the winspeeds were under 100mph…. Once up in the Coire conditions got, well, pretty grim. People say the Cairngorms are the windiest place in Scotland, well I reckon it’s here! Windspeeds were definitely stronger than forecast, and I cast my mind back to my last visit to Meggy – having to resort to crawling on all fours following a bearing in a white out, the wind intent on not letting me stand…

Anyway, back to today. There were folk out, someone being overly optimistic with some skiis (ski-touring conditions it aint), 4 guys even coming down having been snow-holing – well, they are certainly “braver” men than me, it must have been dire in the thaw in a snow hole!

Have a look at the picture below of a couple walking into the debris zone of a huge, deep wet snow avalanche, from below you could clearly see the fracture lines and hundreds if not thoushands of tonnes of soaking wet soggy snow ready to go… You can see the couple outlined lower left for scale. Sensible decision?

Spot the people bottom left in the snow.....

Spot the people bottom left in the snow…..

It was everywhere, every aspect that had snow on and at most altitudes, there had been significant slides. We had it all, huge full-depth avalanches, massive wet snow avalanches, surface sloughs, monumental cornice collapse, smaller point release avalanches, even what looked like crevasses and seracs!

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I like to think the fact we have had so little human involvement with avalanches this year is due to more information, better understanding, more people taking a more serious attitude into the hills, and being better equiped, certainly after the terrible winter we had a couple of years ago. It would be horrific if that happened year after year, and fortunately it does not, but there were definitely some people perhaps stepping over that line into the danger zone today. And why? There was nothing to climb, all slush and rubble, skiing would have been rubbish, and the weather on Meggy was at times awful….

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Lots of people have been wondering what conditions for climbing would be at the minute, well the pictures below of the Post Face etc give you a bit of an example of how black it all is, and what the cornice collapses have done. The weather took a nose dive whilst in Coire Adhair, so sorry for the blurryness of the photos!

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