Pembrokeshire Archives - The Climbing Company

Year of Adventure

By stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk January 6, 2016 January 7, 2016 Courses, Instructional, Pembrokeshire

2016 – The Year of Adventure

Back in November we had the pleasure of working alongside several local companies to deliver a weekend of adventures to some lucky competition winners, as part of the “Year of Adventure” 2016. Visit Wales had organised a competition where the winners got a weekend away, here in Pembrokeshire… They were put up in local accommodation, fed locally, and taken out on activities for the weekend by local providers. These included Foraging, Kayaking, Coasteering and Climbing. While other local companies were delivering some of the activities, we had the pleasure of working alongside TYF and Dragon Activity Guides to introduce the competition winners to the delights of Sea Cliff Climbing.

Experience sea-cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire in 2016, the Year of Adventure in Wales

Now we’re pretty biased, but Pembrokeshire is the best sea-cliff climbing destination in the UK, and whether you have never climbed at all or are a seasoned climber, there is something for everyone here. From friendly slabby routes to big steep multi-pitch routes, bouldering to deep water soloing, the county has so much to offer, making it a perfect destination for your climbing holiday. So with 2016 being the Year of Adventure in Wales, now’s the perfect time to come and find out for yourself! Luckily for them, the Visit Wales competition winners had a sneak preview!

Looking across Pembrokeshire from Porth Clais. There’s a lot of Adventures to be had in 2016!

Over the weekend we ran sessions for total beginners, families with nervous youngsters (and nervous mums and dads!), people that had done a little climbing indoors and even some that had climbed outdoors before. The big thing they all had in common was they were just super keen to be outside! And what a weekend we had! The sun shone, company was great, the weather and sea played ball, good food was eaten and loads of fun was had. We climbed with Orlando who was as nervous as anyone could possibly be, but he conquered his fears, abseiled down the cliff, and by the end of the day had climbed every single route at the crag, some of them pretty tricky! A live changing experience hopefully Orlando – even if you might never climb again?! Then there were the guys that needed pushing that bit further, so we moved on to a bigger rock face, with a more serious feel to it and a committing approach. They just lapped up anything we threw at them and overcame every challenge we could set. Along the way, they guys learn’t the basics of climbing, the technical aspects to it, but also the mental side of things which are super important in our sport. With any luck they’ll be back to Pembrokeshire in 2016, the Year of Adventure, and might want to take the next steps and learn to climb for themselves to enjoy this special place with us!

The Autumn sun setting on the crags of North Pembrokeshire…

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

By stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk January 5, 2016 January 5, 2016 Adventures, Pembrokeshire

Running the Pembrokeshire Coast Path…

Despite not having been back long from India, this winter seems to have gone on forever! No-one will have escaped the fact that it’s been one of the wettest, windiest and miserable on record! It may mean that the Ski season in the Alps has been a slow starter, but it doesn’t have to stop you getting out and exploring, even closer to home.. During the first week of the New Year, we decided to get out on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and combine some New Years (much needed) fitness training and some exploring the nooks and crannies of the area we live…

Hidden beaches on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Having lived in Pembrokeshire on and off for eight years, and spending most of my work and play time outdoors, I have been on most parts of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and, without a hint of bias, honestly believe it to be one of the best, most scenic, most picturesque and rugged wild places in the British Isles…

Looking West on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to St. David’s Head

In an attempt to be able to draw a line around the whole Pembrokeshire Coast Path on the Ordinance Survey map I have on my wall, we made a conscious effort to go out and explore some more of it. And it’s making this effort, especially at this time of year, that really enables you to discover new places, see amazing sights and not feel like a dire winters day is wasted! So, come rain or shine (usually more rain and wind!) we have been out running on the coastal path. The guides say the total distance is 186 miles, and climbs over 33,000ft, and given that you’re rarely likely to encounter another soul on certain parts of it, it feels pretty wild and remote.

Just a small part of the wild, rugged and remote Pembrokeshire Coast Path

During our exploration of the coastal path (which is a National Trail no less..) we’ve discovered beaches we had no idea existed, seen remote beaches full of lazing Seal and spied whole cliff faces with not a single established rock-climb on…

Some blue skies between all the recent storms of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

It wont be long till the Springs here, daylight hours get longer, and with any luck the weather will be better. But on these dark, wet winter months, don’t stay inside and have unproductive days – the Pembrokeshire Coast Path should be explored all year round!

Get out there and explore the Pembrokeshire Coast Path!

More details on the coastal path can be found here…

Climbing in Pembrokeshire

By stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk September 29, 2015 September 29, 2015 Courses, Pembrokeshire, work

Last week we had a few days off at last! And it was a joy to be out on the crags climbing in Pembrokeshire for fun! As we hadn’t been on the limestone in a while, we spent a few days down there. Initially with Alun, but Bramble also got out of his kayak and came with us one day! Great company and some new places explored, and steep, adventurous routes done!

Climbing at St Govans

Steep ground Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Climbing through the Blow Hole

After a few days personal climbing in Pembrokeshire, I had a great day teaching lead climbing skills to Steve and Nikki. Being strong indoor climbers they picked up all the new skills quickly, and both did their first lead climbs in the Porth Clais area. Amazing weather and good company, hopefully they will both be back out on the cliffs again soon!

Steve on a course lead climbing in Pembrokeshire

After a busy Monday to Friday it was a quick trip to North Wales for the weekend… I was attending a “Train the Trainers” course at Plas Y Brenin. Run by Mike Raine, this course is aimed at those delivering training to candidates going through the national governing body awards, such as the SPA and ML. The goal is to get like minded people to explore different teaching styles and models, using mock clients. An interesting couple of days, and a joy to be in the hills in such amazing weather!

Teaching ML rope work in Snowdonia

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TFY Adventure climbing…

By stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk June 12, 2015 June 12, 2015 Pembrokeshire, work

This week (and the next few weeks), I’ve been working for TYF Adventure with their schools that are visiting Pembrokeshire for an activity adventure week. We’ve been blessed with an unreal week of warm sunshine, and I’ve been lucky to work alongside some great Instructors in some beautiful locations…

A day climbing at Porth Clais was followed by 3 days climbing at St David’s Head. I’ve just been climbing this week but the schools do a bit of kayaking, coasteering and surfing. It’s a busy time in Pembrokeshire – yesterday there were 5 different groups at St David’s Head, luckily the area can accommodate that amount, but it seems the secret about how great Pembrokeshire is, it out…

Abseiling at St David’s Head

View walking into St David’s Head

Sunny Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Climbing at Porth Clais

Walking to St David’s Head

Now for an afternoon and weekend Coasteering… Lets hope the sea is as warm as the rock was this week!

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Bouldering in Pembrokeshire

By stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk April 30, 2015 May 10, 2020 Pembrokeshire

I’m not sure if I should let you all in on this little secret, but seeing as the now new-ish (2013) Climbers Club guidebook to North Pembrokeshire reveals much of it, I may as well, it’s not like anyone would come on a bouldering trip over here anyway hey? We have more than our fair share of rock so it’s only right to share the info to some of these magical spots!

So, we’ve kept it under-wraps for a long time, but Pembrokeshire has some unbelievably good bouldering, (perhaps worthy of a trip all on it’s own!) There you go. Now, I’m not going to go into great detail, just a quick overview of some of the crags, for a more comprehensive overview, get the Climbers Club excellent North Pembrokeshire guidebook, and go explore….

Get off Your Ass! – V3 – Bouldering at Plumstone

Lets start with The Beaches – that’s why everyone comes to Pembs anyway hey?

All of the beaches have some bouldering, but the best of the bunch is without doubt Newgale…

Get down there on a low tide on a summers evening and you wont be disappointed. A decent spot for sunsets, and well worth taking the surfboard! Finish your evenings boulder with a pint in the magical Druidstone Inn just up the way and you will have memories that stick with you for sure…

Sunset boulder at Newgale

From the condition dependant caves on the north end of the beach, to the quality stand alone boulders towards the southern end, and the ever so slightly snappy stuff in-between, there are some great routes from V0-V8, any plenty more to discover…

Saturday in Paradise - V3 - Newgale South

Saturday in Paradise – V3 – Bouldering at Newgale

Other beaches worth checking out are Caerfai and Marloes, with plenty more left to potter around on… Despite being on the beach definitely take a pad, the last couple of fierce winter storms have wiped away some of the nice sandy landings… The landings at many of the beach spots are different every time I visit.

Before we move inland, its worth mentioning some of the non tidal sea side bouldering. The Sandstone crag of Porth Clais has some lovely slabby offerings on the different tiers next to the crag. With an eye for a line you will find some easy bouldering, and some very hard blank slabs! Go and have an explore next time your cragging nearby!

Slabby goodness at Porth Clais

Another one to explore are the walls and boulders on the platforms at the very end of St. David’s Head. Some good problems and high-balls exist up-to V3, with scope for lots more, but the real gem out there are the vast and deserted multi-pitch routes on perfect Gabbro above the crashing Atlantic – another secret we don’t want to give away! Oh, actually no – forget I mentioned it!

Moving inland now, there are lots of small areas both of Gabbro, Rhyolite and Dolerite so variety abounds, but the pick of the mid-Pembs spots are Plumstone and Wolfs (Treffgarne in the CC book).

Reservoir Wall – V2 Plumstone – a great little bouldering spot in Pembrokeshire

Both areas pick up any wind going, so pack that belay jacket, but on a clear calm day the views are a panorama of lush green fields and valleys, a far cry from the sea-cliff action down the road…

Some classic lines and plenty more eliminates to discover, the book only touches on what’s there.. One of the very best V1’s I’ve ever done anywhere, is Plumstone Arete, grades in the book range from VB to V3 but plenty more harder problems exist. Go hunt them out, you won’t be disappointed…

Plumstone Arete – Quality V1 bouldering in Pembrokeshire

Now we move to the real Jewel in the Crown…

Just next to Fishguard there is an area known locally as Dinas, comprising of several small Igneous areas, all in the CC guidebook, but by no means is the book comprehensive. The setting is sublime, the views over Dinas Island and the sea, with a remote feel to the place, make this a truly magical place to climb.. An area steeped in history, it is just a stones through from the ancient quarry where the rocks from Stone Henge were taken, which incidentally has some great exploratory bouldering too! (the quarry that is, climbing on Stone Henge would be frowned upon I believe!)

Mynydd Dinas is an area that can only get better with more visitors keeping the rock clean, but we must be careful to minimise wear and tear to the land. Respect the area, park sensibly, use pads to minimise wear on the ground, clean your shoes and brush your chalk off after – please respect this place, it is a local treasure…

There are classic face climbs, faith-in-friction slabs, roofs, hand and finger eating cracks and burly off-widths…

A local story goes that Jerry Moffatt got burned off here years ago by a local climbing instructor on one of the aforementioned off-widths, Freddy’s Nightmare, V4, but fiercer than the grade suggests, its a beast, apparently beer towels wrapped around your hands are the answer!

Tier after tier and fields full of boulders (not quite NZ’s Castle Hill but we’ll take it!) await the intrepid, many problems have been climbed here up to probably around V8, not all documented, so go, explore, discover for yourself what this truly magical area has to offer…