Author: stu_mcinnes@hotmail.co.uk

SPA training and more….

Over the weekend we ran our first SPA training course of the year here in Pembrokeshire. We had 4 keen and experienced candidates, a few of whom work for TYF, a local company I also act as Technical Advisor for, so it was fun to be out with friends! A couple of the candidates had done their SPA training almost 17 years ago, so a refresher was needed and I was keen to see how much they’d remembered!

Thankfully the sun played ball and after a morning inside at the Llanion Cove climbing wall looking at group use and problem solving, we headed to Newton Head, a brilliant SPA crag next to the popular Pembrokeshire climbing spot of St Govans. Looking at personal lead Climbing and abseiling skills in the Sunshine in a beautiful setting, we soon filled a long day of SPA training…

Paul leading at Newton Head during this weekends SPA training in Pembrokeshire

Day 2 of the SPA training in Pembrokeshire and the focus was group set ups and more problem solving. Top ropes, bottom ropes, group abseils and a “mock assessment” to finish rounded off an excellent weekend of SPA training with 4 strong candidates who I’ve no doubt will easily go on to their assessments…

Group Abseil practise during an SPA training course in Pembrokeshire

The next day I had the company of John and Luke, John having climbed on the sea cliffs before was keen to explore a new area, and Luke had never climbed before so was keen for anything! Some big abseils for Luke’s first time and some new skills for John, who has his CWA training comping up. I guided them up 8 routes, up to E1, the lads put in loads of effort and we had a really fun day at Caerfai!

Climbing at Caerfai on a guided climbing day in Pembrokeshire

My next day was yet more Instructor training. This time an SPA refresher for Andrew, who is doing his SPA assessment with us later in the month. He was keen to check what he was doing was all perfect and get into an assessment frame of mind. Over a day at Newton Head we looked at most parts of the SPA syllabus that people tend to struggle on during sssessments, from groupmset ups to problem solving and personal skills. Andrew clearly had been working hard towards his assessment and I showed him some ways to make things slicker and more efficient – but he should feel confident ahead of the day certainly!

Andrew practising at Newton Head during an SPA refresher course in Pembrokeshire

As the weather was so good I couldn’t resist an after work climb! As I was on my own I headed down Huntsmans Leap to shunt up a few routes there – the place all to myself and lovely weather – what more could I ask for!

Huntsmans Leap, Pembrokeshire

Winter Skills Courses

Its been a challenging week weather-wise for our first Winter Skills Courses of the Scottish Winter season. We’ve had a really fun and productive week, though there were a few days when everyone was wet though to their pants!

We started off with return clients Stuart and Peter for a couple of days in Glencoe. With the guys heading over from Northern Ireland to see us we were keen to get straight into it, building on what they learnt last year.. On our first day we headed to Buchaille Etive Mor, and despite a depleting snow line, we found good fun up in the Coire. A wet day to say the least and no views, but full credit to the guys for getting straight back into it! Day 2 saw us head up into Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Stuart and Peter put a big effort in to get to the summit, and despite no views yet again, vowed to return again for more next year! Cheers for a really fun weekend guys despite the grim weather!

Winter Skills Course in Glencoe., on Buchaille Etive Mor

It was then straight in to a 5 day Winter Skills Course with Ian and Jodie. With the luxury of 5 days we have the ability to really get into lots of coaching, making sure Courses participants leave with a whole host of new or enhanced skills, hopefully with the he ability to go in to the Winter Hills on their own.

We had a full day of Navigation practise in Glen Nevis. With both Ian and Jodie being trainee MLs, we were keen to push their bearings, pacing, timings and contour interpretation to the limits! Some mock ML Assessment legs and a bit of fauna and flora made for a really pleasant day.

Navigation practise in Glen Nevis

We got to Nevis Range ski area for the start of the second day, only to see the gondola closed as we arrived! They guys took it on the chin (me less so!) and we took the long walk up! The wind had come in earlier than predicted but we found a sheltered spot to practise moving on snow and using an ice axe to keep us safe. Having the Hill to ourselves other than a Mountain Hare and the SAIS forecaster was nice!

Winter Skills Course on Aonach Mor

With Jodie feeling under the weather it was just Ian and myself, aiming to summit his first Munro on his 30th birthday.. With some strong winds forecast but finally a some snow falling, we opted for Buchaille Etive Beag. With Ian running each legs Navigation he built on the skills we’d visited on Monday and on the descent we found some neve to get the crampons out and have a look at walking in them. Top views from the summit and a great birthday walk for Ian!

Ian using crampons for the first time on our winter Skills week in Glencoe

With the team back to full strength for day 4, and heavy overnight snow, we couldn’t resist a long day out in the hills. A traverse of Stob Coire Nan Lochan was the plan. The hills were beautiful and white, the winds light and the route perfect. A steeper and more exposed challenge for the guys to push themselves on, and some great navigation practise!

Bit of wading on day 4 of our Winter Skills week in Glencoe

With weary legs and a considerable avalanche hazard, we opted for the beautiful Pap of Glencoe for the last day of our Winter Skills Course with Ian and Jodie. Snow was low down and the weather kind, and a full day of testing Ian on his Navigation and winter mountain decision making ahead! With lots of talk in fauna and flora thrown in, we had a treat on the way up… The little fella below came scuttling over and sat with us whilst we ate our lunch!

The climbing got a bit technical for this fella on our Winter Skills Course this week!

A really fun week was had with Ian and Jodie. I was impressed by how much they pushed their physical and mental comfort zones. Loads was learnt and hopefully they’ll feel confidant to get out and get into the winter hills on their own!

Ian and Jodie on the summit of The Pap on the last day of our Winter Skills Course..

Scottish Winter Climbing – a short story

I had the absolute pleasure to show Joey around Scotland the other week and take her on her first forays Winter Climbing. She took to it like a duck to water, at least she appeared to on the outside anyway! Here’s a short strory she wrote on one of the days experiences…

“The West Face” By Joey Jones.

Snow stings my eyes. I squint and bow my helmet against the needling spindrift, examine hands hidden within gloves as if they held respite, not rope. Snowdrifts build over the landscape of my legs. A movement – I pay out rope. Air thickens in quick bursts from my mouth, forming shivering speech bubbles and silent white exclamations. Another movement – more rope. My back is fusing with the sub-zero rock, resistant and relentless. Rope, belay device, carabiner, me. Belay, clove hitch, carabiner, me. A line of sense and safety inches away up the cliff. How long since I moved? I hear a call, disconcertingly close and low, disorientating echoes bouncing off the steep mountain walls. My numb, cumbersome fingers fumble with a frozen screwgate. No dice. A familiar exchange of words, repeated automatically, and I stand, stamp the cold from my toes, hear the clatter of metal on metal as ice falls from my axes.

First moves, then. I appraise the route with new enthusiasm at the prospect of movement. Axe into frozen moss – will that hold? Here – thick, black ice – a satisfying chock, a bulls-eye in a frozen, splintered dartboard. Now a narrow rock edge, solid and hooked. I pull and step and kick and pull. Flex fingers after every move to ward off the cold, but it’s not enough. Agony rips through my frozen fingertips, tearing my breath into ragged banners that flutter in the cold air. Hot aches. The pain is exquisite and extraordinary. I clean the first gear – don’t drop it. The fabric of my gloves freezes to the metal nut on contact, pulling and tearing. Summer sunshine floods my mind with the memory of licking too-cold ice-lollies as a child.

Pause. Breathe. Pools of light turn the far-distant snowy valley basin into a luminescent playground for ptarmigan and mountain hare. Above, inhospitably dense mist obscures the route, snowy boulders looming ominous and unending, a dubious purgatory. My fingers throb. The rope tugs impatiently on my harness. Move. It is late already. A long day. My mind returns to the route. The crux is steep. Not much for my feet. A small voice whispers that I’m out of my depth.

The rock catches my eye and I am distracted. Vivid lichens, green and orange and white, gaudy and gorgeous, adorn the steel grey boulder, forming an incongruous paisley, peculiar and unexpected. The snow is starkly white in contrast, a deep shaft where an ice axe was recently thrust glowing a delicate, luminous blue. I inhale the wild air, filling my lungs and my soul. The moment of doubt passes – I am reassured, grounded and filled with certainty. A sense of being fills me intensely. I survey the rock, explore with my axe, solving the problem. Just another puzzle. This mountain, its jutting towers of indifferent rock with their creeping cover of slick, ridged ice and deep blooms of pillowy snow; this is my adventure playground, an all-natural obstacle course. I lose sight of the world below, sinking cloud engulfing me, in a different place altogether. The daylight hours are nearly spent; have been well-spent. Thwack – pull. Kick, push down. I move up, loose strands of hair aged prematurely by silver icicles, soaked beneath with three different kinds of sweat. A small triumph, I feel it show in the corners of my eyes and mouth. Savour hot Ribena. A shared laugh. Brief respite. Start again.

Joey on Aonach Mor

Winter Climbing

I’ve had a week Winter Climbing in Scotland with Joey, I’m staying up here but it was her first week Winter Climbing. The snow came right on cue, and we took the long drive from Pembrokeshire to Scotland conditions started to improve in the mountains. With a couple of weeks until we started work it was time to get the Hill legs back and have some fun!
Breaking the drive up with a stop in The Peak District for a quick climb on the Grit, and a night in Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival, made the normal long slog more enjoyable. The speaker at the film festival was Steph Davis, and the films were great, so Joey and I arrived in Glencoe full of psyche for the week ahead!

Wanting to stretch the legs after the long drive, our first full day we headed up the small but perfectly formed Pap of Glencoe, a hill I hold close to my heart as I climbed it with my parents over 16 years ago. With all its winter cloak on it was a pleasant ascent and Joey’s first time using an axe and crampons together…

With considerable avalanche danger but lighter winds, it made sense to do a ridge the next day, and what better in Glencoe than the Aonach Eagach. At 4km long, and fairly committing, the route was a great first challenge for Joey’s Scottish Mountaineering journey! She fared really well and moved fast over the complex terrain. A great day and an impressive performance for her first Winter route!

Joey’s first day winter climbing awaits, the Aonach Eagach..

After a day skiing at the Glencoe ski area in poor snow conditions, it was time for another day climbing. All the times I’d been to Scotland and I had never climbed the Buchaille. The route of the day was Curved Ridge. It didn’t disappoint and again Joey totally cruised all the Climbing on her second winter route. The views from the summit overlooking the Western Highlands as the sunset were sublime. Snow conditions down the Coire looked questionable and we’d seen lots of hard windslab on the way up that released easily, so we opted for the descent down the safer ridge.

getting to grips with winter climbing on Curved Ridge

After an active rest day walking and watching Eagles in Glen Nevis, another route was on the cards. Joey wanted her last full day to be an adventure and really push herself, so we decided on using the Nevis Range Gondola to get over to the West face of Aonach Mor. Conditions were tough going, and breaking trail through the deeper snow I was glad Joey was more than capable of sharing in the work! The visibility wasn’t brilliant, and having not been over this side of the hill before, we started off up a route that we thought was going to give grade 3 Climbing. At 500m in length it was to be a big day out if we were to make the last Gondola down, so speed was of the essence.. Conditions were hard work, with lots of soft deep snow and insecure climbing with poor protection – classic Scottish conditions for Joey’s third winter route! Trying to find the line of least resistance was tricky, and the hard but protectable crux of the climb, with awkward torques and hooking with the axes, was considerably harder than grade 3. All the same Joey made it look no effort at all and just as we were starting to feel the fatigue of the day, the summit was in sight and we could move together quicker. We still had to run down through the ski field to make the lift! We went looking for an adventure and definitely found it!

A testing day winter Climbing on the West Face of Aonach Mor

What a great start to our time in Scotland, and it was really inspiring to see Joey taking to winter climbing like a natural. She’ll be climbing harder than me in no time!

Coming into contact with so many people looking at becoming an Outdoor Instructor, many often ask how I got into it all. Running Instructor Training and Assessments and working closely alongside many different outdoor centres and providers, I often end up giving advice on becoming an Outdoor Instructor to people, so though I’d try and get some of my thoughts down here…

Becoming an Outdoor Instructor

Having started climbing at the age of 16, I soon forgot about the more academic aspects of my life. A new sport became an obsession and it was soon all I wanted to do! I was lucky in the early days that I had a mentor to “show me the ropes”, but that’s not to say my early climbing days all went smoothly…! Those stories are for another time..

I had considered an Outdoor Education degree, and indeed visited a few prospective Universities. But looking at the amount of debt that people came out of University with, and not necessarily any National Governing Body Awards (NGBs), I decided this was not the path for me. They seemed at the time biased towards either Outdoor Management or Earth Sciences. These weren’t right for me, but if these areas are something you’re interested in, then it might well be for you (huge debt not withstanding!). All I would say on the University Courses, is that from the several friends that have done them, none are currently working on anything to do with their degree… However, for a “professional” job, a degree always looks good.

Becoming an Outdoor Instructor, running an RCI Training Course in Pembrokeshire…

After completing my A levels (albeit halfheartedly) I spent a while working in an Outdoor Equipment shop, to bag the obligatory cheap gear, but also to save up for any one of the many trips I went on at this time. Trips to the Alps, Norway, The Andes and throughout Europe, alongside many British areas, meant that without realising it I was gradually accruing quite a log book of climbing and walking. I was (am) very lucky to have understanding and supportive parents, as being a “Climbing Bum” might not be possible or practical for everyone… Thanks Mum and Dad!

I was slowly becoming a shop monkey, rising up the ranks in a well known outdoor retailer. This was a great way to meet likeminded people and have great access to kit (wow how the prices have increased in the last 15 years!). Many of my lifelong climbing partnerships were founded here. It was great opportunity to gain some management experience, and this definitely stood me in good stead for future challenges – but it was just too much time inside!

Someone at some point suggested to me that I should look at becoming an Outdoor Instructor. I can’t remember who it was (thanks if it was you!), but after a bit of looking around, we settled on the fast track Instructor scheme at The Brenin. “Fast Track” schemes sometimes get a bit of stick, but if you go into them with previous experience, a good log book and an enthusiastic attitude, then you can get loads out of them!

Becoming an Outdoor Instructor, working on an ML Training Course in Snowdonia..

Having spent years Climbing, Mountaineering and Walking prior to the course, I was already way above the minimum requirement for most of the Mountain Training NGBs, so found them relatively easy and my pathway to becoming an Outdoor Instructor was initially straightforward. I got the opportunity to get awards in sports that were newer to me. This spread of awards across different sports is important for getting jobs in Multi Activity Centres. It would have taken me years of effort to get all the same NGBs had I attempted to do them all independently, instead of the intense 4 months at The Brenin.

There are a proliferation of these Instructor Training Courses these days, and whilst they can be expensive, consider the entire cost of going alone. It definitely worked out cheaper for me in the long run. What I would urge you to check is that the course is run by highly qualified and experienced people. Many of the ones I see nowadays are run by people with no more than the basic NGBs themselves…

After finishing the course, instead of going straight into a job, I did some work back in the shop (to save up for a trip to Yosemite – you never can get rid of the urge to explore the world!). My first seasonal Instructor job the following year was in Pembrokeshire, and I found it on the website Bluedome. It was a great centre, I made great friends, and I soon realised the area is pretty special… A year working in New Zealand, another year in Pembrokeshire, and a couple of years working in Dorset (all at Multi Activity centres) before finally ending up back in Pembrokeshire, sees me where I am now. All these centres, all the instructors I worked alongside and all the management I worked for shaped me into the well-rounded Instructor I am today. Variety really is the key. I discovered new sports, new sessions to work on, and subsequently more NGBs to get! This all makes you more employable, but also puts lots of variety into your daily work.

As well as working in multi activity centres on contract, I started working freelance. This gave me the opportunity to combine work with travel, and I started leading overseas expeditions to places like the Indian Himalaya and the Andes. Working with many different client groups, from schools to adults, the Duke of Edinburgh scheme, pupil referral units and disability groups, all contributed to more skills, more experience and I guess more employability. The work at centres often wasn’t well paid, but you need to be able to look past the pay if you’re going to make it in the Outdoor Industry. Freelance work is better paid, but the problem with all of it is the seasonal nature of the work. During the winter months there are very few centres that are operational, and a year round job in this industry is to be snapped up!

After years of this work, I decided to commit to follow my true passion and gain higher level awards in Climbing and Mountaineering. Again, the logbooks were never an issue, what with being an obsessive climber, but it still takes time and dedication. I passed my Winter Mountain Leader while living in Dorset (no excuses anyone!) and my MIA a few years ago now. (EDIT – 2020 – now have passed my WMCI, the highest UK qualification in Climbing and Mountaineering, Summer and Winter) I still do the basic taster session work, but mix it up with higher end stuff too, making it all more enjoyable across the board. A typical week could see me giving Technical Advice to a Centre, Instructing on a Coasteering session, delivering an RCI Training or Assessment or even running a Bush Craft session on the beach.. Super varied and super fun!

Working as a Mountaineering Instructor, teaching Lead Climbing in Pembrokeshire.

I’m lucky to get more year round (and better paid) work now I’ve got higher level NGBs. I also am now in the position where I train and assess instructors starting out on their own outdoor career. Working up through the industry, I feel I’ve done most of the work out there, so am well-placed to advise people when they come on my SPA Training courses . When I’m running Learn to Lead Climb Courses or Self Rescue Skills days for climbers, I’m super passionate and have a great depth of experience to draw from, hopefully leaving clients inspired to go and be Climbing Bums themselves!

A week is never boring, work is never a chore, I get to work with my mates, though now running my own business I do spend more time on the computer than I’d like… So on that note, I’m off outside to play! Feel free to drop me an email with any questions about working in the outdoors, courses or even potential trip advice – I look forward to hearing from you! stu@climbingcompany.co.uk Or Contact us via the online form.

Basic qualifications/experience to consider when becoming an Outdoor Instructor:
– 16 hour outdoor first aid
– RCI
– ML
– UKCC Level 1/2
– 4 star specific discipline paddling awards
– D1 Minibus license
– Mountain Biking (different options out there)
– Surf Instructor (different options out there)
– Beach Lifeguard Award
– Coasteering experience (currently no award for this activity)
– Bush craft experience
– Archery
– Cave/Mine Leader award
– Team Building and games experience
– High Ropes course experience
– Facilitation experience

Teaching self-rescue skills to a group of Outdoor Instructors in Pembrokeshire, my work is varied and interesting now!