Annapurna basecamp trek

Annapurna basecamp trek

I’ve been lucky enough to have just spent 2 months in Nepal, and twice did the Annapurna basecamp trek. The first time we went in, it was a super quick blast over a few days as a stopping point to climb a peak above, and the second time it was the classic Annapurna Sanctuary trek when I was working with my World Challenge group. My initial trip was from the roadside at Phedi, direct up the valley over New Bridge, and whilst easily doable in that short space of time for reasonably fit trekkers, it definitely doesn’t give you much time for taking the view in… So below is a brief outline of our longer Annapurna basecamp trek, via Poon Hill, a trek at a much more relaxed pace!

After the hour and a half journey by bus from Pokhara, we were deposited at the roadside in Naya Pul. We were camping along the way as well as staying in tea houses higher up, so we had a big crew of cooks, porters, guides etc, but you could just as easily be all alone with just yourself and a minimal day bag if you were just staying in tea houses. If you were doing it independently I’d maybe take a sleeping bag and liner, but that’s it after clothes and toiletries, book, camera, snacks, comfy trainers to change in to at the end of the day – pretty amazing you can do this trek carrying so little thanks to the incredible infrastructure! – (Just a quick note, if you’re doing it independently, budget around 2000 rupees a day per person for food and accommodation, this doesn’t include beer or Rakshi!). You’ll need to pay a small amount for permits, but if you’re a confident hillwalker, don’t bother getting a guide or porter. This can all easily be arranged within a day in Pokhara, however you decide to do it.

We headed off in the sweltering heat, up a dirty vehicle track (worth taking a buff to keep the dust out your throat). Usually a short first day due to the travelling, and eventually you leave behind the vehicle tracks and are walking amongst giant Rhododendron forests, and if you keep your eyes peeled you may spot monkeys and other interesting creatures… After a few days, the aim is to be at Ghoerpani, with the intention of getting up to see the sunrise from the famous Poon Hill. If you were coming to the Himalaya for peace and quiet and thought you’d have the place to yourself, you’re about to be shown drastically the opposite! The crowds don’t detract from what is an incredible sunrise. Nowhere on earth have I found such an awe-inspiring vista so easily accessible, with 8000m peaks littering the horizon. Get some warm masala chai, sit down and take it all in! It’s worth remembering that you’re at 3000m here, so you may feel the altitude a bit, so don’t rush around, but this is great acclimatisation for later on!

Sunrise over Dhaulagiri, an 8000m peak you won’t see again on the Annapurna basecamp trek

After breakfast back at camp, you follow lovely tracks through the forests along and eventually down towards the Modhi Khola, the river that flows from the glaciers off Annapurna. You’ll arrive in Chomrong to an array of German bakeries (the pastry isn’t quite what you’d expect, but the apple pie pretty nice!) and great views up the valley where you’re heading! On the way down it’s worth remembering this is where you’re path will differ, as you head down to Jhinnu instead of the direction you come from. It’s well worth factoring in an afternoon off at the hot springs at Jhinnu to soother your aching muscles on the way down!)

We spent the next few days climbing slowly higher up towards the Annapurna Sanctuary, you could easily do it quicker but you’d miss so much along the way… The valley steepens and narrows, and as you creep higher the landscape, vegetation and wildlife all change. Rhododendrons give way to Bamboo, Monkeys give way to Marmots and if you look up you might see the vultures or the Thar, apparently there’s Bears and even Snow Leopards up here..!

The view from the Hinku cave during the Annapurna basecamp trek

We opted to stay at Machapuchare basecamp given how cold it was when we were high, the forecast for 4000m was horrifically chilly! If you had time, I’d say stay at both! The sunsets at MBC are magnificent, the weather at ABC can clag in towards the afternoon, but it’s worth lingering to try and spot one of the monsterous avalanches that tear down the faces above, or the marmots that hang out when they think no one is around. Don’t make the mistake of walking no further than the buildings at ABC. A short way beyond is an area full of memorials and prayer flags, and if you’re careful you can look over the moraine down to the rubble strewn south Annapurna glacier below you…

To enhance your time up here, have a read of Annapurna by Maurice Herzog, or The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen. Have a go at finding out about the stories surrounding the tragic deaths of climbers Anatoli Boukreev, Alex MacIntyre, Pierre Beghin, and a little more about the people themselves, and have a look for their memorials amongst the many cairns at Annapurna basecamp. Some quite incredible stories…

Exploring Annapurna basecamp

Take it easy around basecamp if you’ve not been too high before, the altitude can affect some people, but once you’re ready, it’s time for those hot pools!  You’ll get to Jhinnu after 2/3 days, and you can be at the road in between 1 and 3 days after that, depending on where you chose to go to. The team did amazing and all finished the Annapurna basecamp trek with no major issues, they all asked me heaps of questions about the mountains and climbing which was ace – hopefully a whole group of new mountaineers inspired! A 12 day trek is no mean feat if you’ve never done anything like it before, so well done team!

Relaxing at the Jhinnudanda hot pools after the Annapurna basecamp trek

Its the first time I’d done a tea house trek, and it was surprising how busy it was, but it didn’t disappoint! I haven’t found anywhere else in the world where so many massive mountains can be seen so close up and with minimal effort. If you head out to Nepal to do the Annapurna basecamp trek enjoy, and feel free to get in touch for any more logistical information or advice!

Annapurna basecamp

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