Pembrokeshire new routes
With the bird bans recently lifted, on my day off I was desperate to do some new routes and explore some unclimbed sections of cliffs that are off limits for much of the summer. I’d done handful of new routes at Pointz Castle last year, and new there was scope for loads more. Persuading Nik to come along with the temptation of some new routes we headed out to the crag, not far from the busy Newgale beach. I’d taken a swim underneath the crag last week with an eye on the lines and the access to them. It’s fairly hard to tell until you’re on it how solid the rock is going to be, much of the crags here appear far nicer than they really are..! After an airy ridge traverse to get to a abseil point, I started down the cliff, clearing the loose rock as I went. Of which there was lots! Once the abseil line was clear and safe Nik came to join me at our non tidal ledge. It was hard to tell from below what secrets the lines might be hiding, especially underneath all the lichen!
Of all the climbing disciplines, trad climbing is probably my favourite, with on-sight trad new routing being the pinnacle of that style. I love heading up in to the unknown, hoping the gear, the rock and your arms are all going to be adequate! It had a special appeal to it, beyond being the “first”, for me it’s exploring, problem solving, mastery of self, risk and mind control, and above all else, fun and rewarding!
The pick of the bunch was a steep crack line, preceded by an easy but unprotected slab. The crack itself was fairly solid, but you never quite trust the rock, or the layer of lichen, ready to spit you off at any minute… The line had some very marginal gear, but every so often there was that piece of gear that inspires you to keep pushing on. Spending a long while on a large foothold having a rest before the crux section, trying to figure out the sequence, the holds that would support your weight, the next gear placement and resting position – it all makes it so memorable. Once commited you keep going and hope your mind has it all figured, and will tell youre body what to do, and that your body will be capable…
The top out was a testing section, the harder climbing done, but the last solid gear placement way below your feet, meaning a long fall should any one of the loose finishing jugs blow, which seems like a distinct possibility. Spread your weight, push don’t pull, place a bit of gear to boost confidence, but definitely DONT fall on it, give yourself a little taking to, and very gingerly, pull over the top. Take a moment to savour the views heading south to Newgale, then back to reality and the strong wind, ready to blow you back over the cliff… Take the time to find a good belay amongst all the loose rock at the top of the cliff, then sit, content at a job well done, as you belay the second up, taking all the gear out to leave no trace that you were ever there…
New routing in Pembrokshire, waiting for the right moment to commit to the crux of the route… Climbing new routes at Pointz Castle..
Oh and I spent a few days working for TYF helping run climbing sessions with a lovely school from Christ College, Brecon… Top bunch of kids who put loads of effort in and were great company.. A few days climbing at Porth Clais is always a pleasure!
Climbing sessions for Christ College, working for TYF
